I had an early start this morning, before 10 o’clock I was ready to hit the road. The weather was sunny, however some showers seemed likely. As it did rain few drops as I reached Aluksne center, I paid a visit to the tourist information. And the LMT shop to buy a prepaid sim for the iPad. I had used the wifi at the camping, but it’s never enough to rely only on available wifis…
Thus I was well prepared for the joyous day. As I was navigating my way out of the town and road towards Gulbene, I saw a touring cyclist behind me. What a surprise! We greeted and exchanged our plans, and turned out that we’d have some 25km same road. Thus, we rode together for some time.
Juri (?) was a Latvian army’s professional soldier. He was on his first bicycle tour on his road bike which was equipped with rear rack and panniers. He had been to Afghanistan and was about to return there in December. It was nice chatting for some time, until he turned to Balvi and I to Gulbene.
In Gulbene, I went to a shop for cabbage-celery salad, rjazhenka and non-alcoholic beer. I went to the manor park to enjoy my lunch. I exchanged few words with a local elderly man (in Russian), who was concenred of the safety. I said that anything can happen, but it’s better to go alone than not at all.
I was hesitating if should find a camping in Jaungulbene – there was at least 2 available according to the tourist map, but I decided to head for Cesvaine. According to some tourist guides, there was a camping, but I calld to check. So, 20km more. Enjoying the Latvian roads, which are more or less just bumpy patchwork. As I reached Cesvaine, I figured out that there’s an uphill to the village center. There’s a beautiful castle, but at that point I was more concerned of the sausages and beer. So, up I climbed. It was worth it: the castle is beautiful and at the local shop I found all a cyclist can desire (e.g. sausages and beer).
Then it was downhill to the Rozites camping. There were no signs whatsoever, so I really had to check the road in my iPad. It wasn’t a long way, but the locals like keeping their dogs free and the dogs enjoy harrassing the cyclists. If there’s a one annoying and potentially dangerous thing with cycling, it’s these watchdogs. I don’t understand why people allow them doing this. Arg.
I was rewarded at the Rozites. There’s some wood industies around, so it’s doesn’t really look inviting when approaching, but the spot is great. They just have few cottages near to the pond, a smoke sauna and kitchen building. All were accomodated by families. I talked a lady, who lives here all summers with her husband and two kids. She was very curious sbout my travelling and thought that it’s extraordinary for a woman to go solo touring on bicycle. I’m telling to people it’s nothing extraordinary, anyone could do it.
Kristiina Ullgren 